How to Back Up & Prepare Your Device Before Posting It for Repair

Posting a device for repair is safe and straightforward – but ten minutes of preparation before it leaves your hands prevents almost every problem we see. The two biggest causes of avoidable delay are a device that still has an activation lock switched on (so it can't be fully tested or restored) and a device sent with no recent backup. Both are completely within your control.

This guide walks you through exactly what to do, with the correct menu paths for iPhone, iPad, Mac, Samsung, Pixel and other Android devices. Follow it in order and your repair runs smoothly from the moment your parcel arrives. For the bigger picture first, read how mail-in phone repair works.

Direct answer: Before posting a device for repair, do five things: (1) back it up – iCloud or a computer for Apple devices, Google/Samsung Cloud or Smart Switch for Android; (2) turn off Find My / Activation Lock / Reactivation Lock / Find My Device so the device can be tested and restored; (3) remove your SIM and any memory card; (4) decide your passcode policy – either share a temporary passcode or back up and factory reset; (5) record your IMEI/serial and photograph the device's condition. Turning off activation locks is the single most important step – a locked device cannot be fully tested.

Step 1: Back up everything first

A good repair shouldn't touch your data, and at celltech the vast majority don't. But backups exist for the rare cases – a device that won't power on for a final test, or a fault deeper than expected. Back up first, every time; it costs nothing and removes all the worry. For more on this, see what happens to your data during a repair.

iPhone and iPad

You have two options, and doing both is ideal.

• iCloud (wireless): go to Settings > [your name] > iCloud > iCloud Backup, make sure it's on, then tap Back Up Now and stay on Wi-Fi until it finishes. This includes your app data, device settings, Home Screen layout, iMessage/SMS history and your photos (if iCloud Photos isn't already syncing them).
• Computer (local): connect to a Mac and open Finder (or the Apple Devices app on Windows), select your device, and choose Back up all of the data on your iPhone to this Mac. Tick Encrypt local backup – only an encrypted backup also saves your passwords, Health and Wi-Fi data – then click Back Up Now.

A local encrypted backup is the most complete safety net and doesn't depend on free iCloud storage. iPads back up the same way.

Android: Samsung, Pixel and others

Android backups are split across a few places, so check each one:

• Google account: Settings > Google > Backup > Back up now (Backup by Google One). This covers apps and app data, call history, contacts, device settings and SMS.
• Photos and videos: open the Google Photos app, tap your profile picture and confirm Backup is on and finished – photos aren't always included in the main system backup.
• Samsung Cloud (Samsung phones): Settings > Accounts and backup > Back up data.
• Smart Switch (full local backup): install Samsung Smart Switch on a PC or Mac, connect by cable and back up locally – the most thorough option, and useful if your cloud storage is limited.

Mac and laptops

For a Mac, a full Time Machine backup is best. Connect an external drive and go to System Settings > General > Time Machine > Add Backup Disk. iCloud (System Settings > [your name] > iCloud) can sync Desktop, Documents and Photos, but it isn't a full system backup on its own. For a Windows laptop, copy your important folders to an external drive or use File History first.

Step 2: Turn off Find My and activation locks (the most important step)

This is the step people forget, and the one that causes the most delay. Anti-theft features – Apple's Activation Lock, Samsung's Reactivation Lock and Google's Factory Reset Protection – tie the hardware to your account. They're excellent for stopping thieves, but they also stop a repair technician in their tracks.

Here's why it matters: many repairs need the device powered on, tested and sometimes restored to confirm the fix worked. If a lock is still active and the device has to be wiped, it demands your account password at the setup screen – which the workshop can't supply. The device gets stuck on an activation screen, and we have to pause and contact you to release it. Turning the lock off before you post avoids all of that.

iPhone and iPad

Go to Settings > [your name] > Find My > Find My iPhone and toggle it off. You'll be asked for your Apple Account password – entering it disables Activation Lock. (Switching off Find My is enough; you don't need to sign out entirely unless you intend to factory reset.)

Mac

Go to System Settings > [your name] > Find My > Find My Mac > Turn Off. On Apple Silicon and T2 Macs this clears Activation Lock. If you plan to wipe the Mac first, also sign out of your Apple Account.

Samsung

Samsung's Reactivation Lock lives inside Find My Mobile. Go to Settings > Security and privacy > Find My Mobile and turn off Reactivation lock (and Remote unlock). If you intend to factory reset the phone yourself, also remove your Samsung and Google accounts first.

Google Pixel and other Android

Android's Factory Reset Protection (FRP) triggers if the device is wiped while a Google account is still signed in. To be safe, remove the account first: Settings > Passwords & accounts, tap your Google account, then Remove account. Also turn off Find My Device at Settings > Security & privacy > Find My Device (Pixel) or Settings > Google > Find My Device. With no account signed in, a reset won't leave the device locked.

Step 3: Decide your passcode and data policy

Some repairs – replacing a screen and testing touch, Face ID or the cameras – need the device unlocked to confirm everything works. You have two sensible, equally safe choices, and you should pick one before you post:

• Share a temporary device passcode. If you're comfortable with the device being powered on to test it, set a simple temporary passcode you don't use elsewhere (and change it back when it returns), and include it with your repair note. A technician only ever needs your device passcode for testing – never your Apple ID, Google or banking passwords. If anyone asks for those, that's a red flag.
• Back up, then factory reset. If you'd rather no personal data leaves home, back up (Step 1), turn off the activation lock (Step 2), then factory reset so the device arrives blank and restore from your backup later. Important: turn off Find My / FRP before you wipe, or the freshly-reset device will be locked on arrival.

Whichever you choose, write it on your repair note: either "temporary passcode: 1234" or "device has been factory reset." That one line saves a back-and-forth.

Step 4: Remove your SIM, memory card and accessories

Small loose items get lost in transit and aren't needed for the repair, so take them out and keep them:

• SIM and memory card: pop the tray with the ejector tool (or a paperclip) and keep your SIM – your number stays with you – along with any microSD card. (eSIM-only devices have nothing to remove.)
• Case, cover, PopSocket and skins: take these off so the device can be inspected and opened.
• Cracked screen protector: for a screen repair, peel off a damaged protector; otherwise leave a sound one in place.
• Don't send chargers, cables, AirPods or other accessories unless we've specifically asked – keep them safe at home.

Step 5: Record your IMEI/serial and photograph the condition

Two minutes here gives you a clear record of exactly what you sent and the state it was in – useful for your own peace of mind and for matching the device to your booking.

• Find the IMEI/serial: dial *#06# on any phone to display it (also under Settings > General > About on iPhone, or Settings > About phone > Status information on Samsung). Note it down or screenshot it.
• Photograph the device: take clear photos of the front, back, all four edges and the screen both on and off, capturing any existing scratches, dents or cracks – a dated before-repair record.

Step 6: Pack it safely and post it

Power the device down, wrap it in bubble wrap or a padded sleeve, place it snugly in a small box so it can't move, and seal it well. Include a note with your name, contact details, the fault and your chosen passcode policy. celltech's mail-in service is UK-wide and fully tracked and insured both ways, so your device is protected in transit and you can follow its journey to the workshop and back. If you're still weighing it up, read is it safe to post your phone for repair.

The complete pre-send checklist

Run through this just before you seal the box:

• ☐ Backed up to iCloud/computer (Apple) or Google/Samsung Cloud/Smart Switch (Android), and confirmed it finished
• ☐ Turned off Find My / Activation Lock / Reactivation Lock / Find My Device (FRP)
• ☐ Decided passcode policy – temporary passcode shared or device factory reset
• ☐ Removed SIM and memory card
• ☐ Removed case, cover and accessories
• ☐ Recorded IMEI/serial number
• ☐ Photographed the device's condition
• ☐ Powered off, packed securely, note enclosed with your details and fault

Do these and your repair starts the moment your parcel is opened – no activation-screen hold-ups, and your data safely in your own hands.

Frequently asked questions

Do I really need to back up if it's just a screen repair?

A screen replacement doesn't touch your storage, so your data should be untouched. But backing up is free and takes minutes, and it protects you against the unlikely – a device that won't boot for a final test, or a fault deeper than the screen. Treat it as standard practice before any repair.

What happens if I forget to turn off Find My or Activation Lock?

The repair can usually still be done, but if the device needs to be reset or reactivated to verify the fix, it'll stop at an activation screen that only your account password can pass. We'd then have to contact you to release it, which delays the return. It's far smoother to switch it off before posting – and you can turn it back on when the device comes home.

Should I give you my passcode or wipe the phone?

Either is fine – it's your call. A temporary device passcode lets us fully test touch, Face ID and cameras after the repair. If you'd prefer maximum privacy, back up and factory reset so the device arrives blank (turn off the activation lock first). Just tell us which you've done. We never need your Apple ID, Google or banking passwords – only the device passcode, and only for testing.

Will I lose my photos and messages?

You shouldn't – most repairs leave your data completely intact. The point of a backup is that even in the rare cases where data could be affected, you have a full copy to restore from, with your photos, messages and apps exactly as they were.

Do I need to remove my SIM and microSD card?

Yes, please do. They're small, easy to lose in transit and aren't needed for the repair. Keeping your SIM also means you keep your number active. If your device is eSIM-only, there's no physical SIM to remove.

Is it safe to post an expensive device?

Yes. celltech's mail-in service is UK-wide and fully tracked and insured both ways, so your device is covered while it travels to us and back. Pack it securely in a padded box and you can follow the tracking the whole way. There's more in our guide on whether it's safe to post your phone for repair.

How long does the whole process take?

It depends on the device and the fault, so we confirm timing after assessing it rather than promising a generic figure. What you can rely on is the process: tracked, insured postage both ways, free diagnostics on standard repairs, transparent published pricing, and your device posted back fixed – covered by celltech's 27-month standard guarantee, more than double the 12 months most independent UK repairers offer. See how mail-in phone repair works for the full journey.